Dog boots for winter: how to size them and get your dog to wear them

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5 min read · Updated 7 October 2026

Dog boots earn their place when the sidewalks are salted, and they only work if they fit and your dog accepts them. Measure by tracing the paw on paper, test the boots indoors, and introduce them one at a time with treats. The American Kennel Club’s rule of thumb is a useful starting point: if you would not walk barefoot on a surface, such as a scalding or freezing sidewalk, neither should your dog.

When boots are worth the trouble

Plenty of dogs get through winter without them. But in a city, the pavement is often treated with road salt and deicers, and the ASPCA notes that booties can give more coverage than paw balm alone and can keep sand and salt from lodging between bare toes and causing irritation. Cornell veterinarian Dr. Brian Collins says that dogs living where salt is used to control ice may need boots, or to have their feet washed off when they come indoors. So washing is a legitimate alternative, which matters if your dog flatly refuses boots.

The AKC lists what properly fitting boots can do: prevent frostbite and heat blisters, reduce severed nails, shield paws from deicers and road salts, and add cushioning and insulation. It also gives a temperature to keep in mind, since frostbite can occur below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.

For the salt-specific side of this, including what to do when you get home, our guide on protecting your dog’s paws from winter salt goes through it step by step. This article is about the boots themselves.

What to look for in a pair

Different boots suit different jobs, according to the AKC: hiking traction, breathable mesh for hot sidewalks, rain protection. For a winter city walk, these are the features it lists as worth checking.

The moisture point is easy to overlook. A boot that traps slush against the skin for an hour is not protecting anything. Take them off when you get home, dry the paws and look between the toes, which is a good habit anyway after you clean your dog’s paws after a walk.

Sizing: trace the paw

The AKC method is simple. Press your dog’s paw onto a sheet of paper, trace around it, and measure across the widest part of the tracing. Then compare that number with the maker’s size chart, which is practical advice, since brands differ.

Then do a test run indoors before the first real walk. The AKC says to check that the paws stay in, that the soles give traction, and that the boot conforms to the shape of the paw. If the fit is poor, try another size. A boot that pinches is likely to make the whole project harder, which is our practical read and not an AKC statement.

Getting a dog to wear them

Many dogs object to boots at first, and the AKC’s acclimation advice is patient and works in stages.

Start by letting the dog sniff and explore the boots, with praise and high-value treats. Next, put on just one boot, and only add the others once the dog tolerates that. Indoors, wear them for short periods, and lengthen each session a bit. Watch for signs of discomfort or stress, and do not be dismayed if it takes time. If your dog freezes or refuses to move, a sensible move is to stop for the day and go back a step, which is our suggestion and not the AKC’s.

Watch your dog for the cold itself

Boots cover the paws and nothing else. Cornell lists shivering, anxiety and moving slowly as signs of hypothermia, and the ASPCA’s general reminder applies on every walk: if it is too cold for you, it is probably too cold for your dog. The ASPCA also says antifreeze is lethal and that ice melts can be dangerous if ingested, so check your dog is not licking puddles or the pavement. A dog that tolerates boots is still a dog that needs shorter outings in a deep freeze.

If boots will not work

Some dogs never accept them. The ASPCA and Cornell offer a set of fallbacks for those dogs. Apply petroleum jelly or a vet-approved paw protectant before going out, and Cornell’s Dr. Lauri-Jo Gamble recommends a paw balm before each walk. Afterward, wipe the paws with a lukewarm washcloth, then reapply balm if you are not using boots. Cornell notes that longer-haired dogs collect ice and snow on their feet, and recommends trimming the fur on the feet and shortening the hair between the paw pads. Nails should be trimmed more often too. The ASPCA also recommends pet-friendly ice melts and says to remove snowballs from between the pads, though on a public sidewalk you will rarely control which product is used.

After each walk, the ASPCA says to wash and dry the feet and stomach, and to check for cracks in the paw pads or redness between the toes. The AKC adds that paw balm can be used for cracked or dry pads. Salt and most deicers can be toxic to dogs, according to Cornell, so avoid heavily treated roads when you can, and call your vet if cracks or redness do not clear up.

Common questions about dog boots